Floor two
Questions people
actually ask
30 of them, grouped into 6 sections. Where an answer states a rule it names the statute or the HUD letter it comes from, so you can check it rather than take it on trust. Where the honest answer is that nobody knows, it says that instead.
First floor
Getting started
The questions that come before a house, an offer or an application.
What is the difference between pre-qualified and pre-approved?
Pre-qualification is a conversation: you state your income and debts, and a lender tells you roughly what that supports. Nothing is verified. Pre-approval is underwriting: the lender collects pay stubs, W-2s or returns, and bank statements, pulls your credit, and issues a letter based on documents it has actually read. Sellers treat the two very differently, and only the second one survives an offer being scrutinised.
How much do I need for a down payment?
Less than most people think, and the minimum depends on the programme: 3% on some conventional products, 3.5% on FHA at a 580 credit score, and zero on VA and USDA for those who qualify. Twenty percent is not a requirement — it is the point at which a conventional loan carries no mortgage insurance. The real question is not whether you can buy with less but what the insurance costs and how long it runs, which differs sharply by programme.
How much cash do I need beyond the down payment?
Budget 2–5% of the purchase price for closing costs — on a $310,000 house, roughly $6,200 to $15,500 — covering lender fees, title insurance, the appraisal, recording, and prepaid taxes and insurance into escrow. On top of that: earnest money at offer, which is credited back at closing but leaves your account first; the inspection, paid on the day; and a reserve, because a purchase that clears the down payment with nothing left cannot absorb a repair in month three.
What credit score do I need?
HUD Handbook 4000.1 permits 3.5% down on FHA at a 580 score and 10% down from 500. Conventional underwriting generally starts around 620. Individual lenders layer stricter overlays on top of both, so a programme minimum is a floor rather than a promise. Score also affects pricing, but how much on any given day is a question for live quotes rather than for a web page.
How long does the process take?
This site does not publish a figure, and you should be sceptical of sites that do. The parts that take the longest — the appraiser’s diary and the title company’s queue — are third parties on their own calendars, and no lender controls either. What is within your control is having documents ready before they are asked for, which is the difference between a fast file and a slow one.
Floor four
What you can borrow
Ratios, income, debts, and the difference between a lending limit and a budget.
How do lenders decide how much I can borrow?
With two debt-to-income ratios, both measured against gross income. The front-end ratio is the whole housing payment — principal, interest, taxes, insurance, HOA and mortgage insurance — over gross monthly income, classically capped at 28%. The back-end ratio adds every other recurring debt payment and is classically capped at 36%; FHA is more commonly cited at 31% and 43%, and automated underwriting approves outside all of these on compensating factors. Each cap produces a housing budget, and the smaller of the two is your actual limit.
Which ratio is actually limiting me?
It depends on how much non-housing debt you carry, and it changes what you should do about it. On $118,000 of income with $40,000 down, $640 a month of other debt leaves the front-end test binding at a $366,506 ceiling — paying the car off would not raise it by a dollar. Raise the debt to $940 a month and the back-end test takes over, the ceiling falls to $346,962, and clearing $500 a month of that debt is worth $19,544 of house, more than half a point of interest rate would be. The affordability calculator prints which constraint bound the answer.
Why do lenders use gross income instead of take-home pay?
Because withholding varies with filing status, state, deductions and elections in ways a lender cannot verify or standardise, while gross income appears on the pay stub and the W-2. It is a convention chosen for comparability, not a claim about what you can afford — and it is the main reason a ratio-derived maximum overshoots what a household can comfortably carry.
Should I borrow the maximum I qualify for?
The ratio is a lending limit, not a budget. It is computed before income tax, before retirement contributions, before childcare and before maintenance, and it assumes today’s income continues. A more useful exercise is to name the payment you would still be content with in a bad month and find the price that produces it. That number usually lands 10–20% below the ceiling.
Floor five
Mortgage insurance
The single most misunderstood cost in American home lending, and the one this site was rebuilt to get right.
When does mortgage insurance come off a conventional loan?
Under the Homeowners Protection Act of 1998 (12 U.S.C. 4901), borrower-paid PMI must be cancelled on request when the scheduled balance reaches 80% of the original value, and terminated automatically at 78%. Both thresholds are measured against the ORIGINAL value, not a new appraisal, so appreciation does not count toward automatic termination. Overpaying the loan does move the date, because the test is on the balance.
Does FHA mortgage insurance also stop at 80%?
No, and this is the error worth correcting. HUD Mortgagee Letter 2013-04 fixes the duration of FHA annual MIP on the loan-to-value at origination: above 90% it runs for the full mortgage term, and at or below 90% it runs for 11 years. There is no balance test and no 80% threshold. On a $310,000 purchase with 3.5% down, a calculator applying the conventional rule stops counting at $17,814 while the borrower actually pays $32,850 — an understatement of $15,036.
How much is FHA mortgage insurance?
Two premiums. Up-front MIP is 1.75% of the base loan amount (HUD Handbook 4000.1 II.A.2) and is normally financed into the loan, where it also accrues interest. Annual MIP is charged monthly on the average outstanding balance for each year at rates set by HUD Mortgagee Letter 2023-05, keyed on loan size, term and LTV — 0.55% on a typical high-LTV 30-year loan, and 0.50% at exactly 90%.
Is it worth putting 10% down on an FHA loan rather than 3.5%?
Often, yes, and by more than the extra equity. Ten percent down lands the loan at exactly 90% LTV, which is at the threshold rather than above it, so the annual premium falls to 0.50% and the duration falls from the full term to 11 years. On a $310,000 house that takes the total annual MIP from $32,850 to $14,428 for $20,150 more cash at closing. It is the largest cliff edge in FHA pricing and nothing in the process points it out.
Do VA loans have mortgage insurance?
No monthly mortgage insurance of any kind, at any loan-to-value. The one-time funding fee under 38 U.S.C. 3729 is the whole of it. That is the structural difference from both FHA and a low-down-payment conventional loan, and on a typical purchase it is worth $130 to $200 a month for a decade or more.
What does the VA funding fee cost?
It is a percentage of the loan under 38 U.S.C. 3729, at the rates in VA Circular 26-23-06: first use is 2.15% below 5% down, 1.50% at 5–9.99%, and 1.25% at 10% or more; a subsequent use is 3.30% below 5% down but drops to the same 1.50% at 5% down. On a $400,000 purchase that means a repeat user pays $13,200 with nothing down and $5,700 with 5% down — $7,500 of fee removed by $20,000 of cash. An IRRRL streamline is 0.50%.
Floor three
Refinancing and paying it down
Break-even, term resets, points and overpayments — four versions of the same question.
How far does the rate have to drop before refinancing is worth it?
There is no threshold, and half-a-point rules of thumb answer the wrong question. Divide your out-of-pocket closing costs by your monthly saving to get a break-even in months, and compare that against how long you will actually keep the loan — not how long the term runs. A large balance can justify a quarter-point move; a small balance may not justify a full point.
How can a refinance lower my payment and cost me more?
By resetting the term. On a $268,000 balance with 24 years left at 6.75%, a new 30-year loan at 5.875% cuts the payment by $296.23 a month and breaks even on $5,400 of costs in 19 months — and adds 72 payments, taking total interest from $273,887 to $302,716. The same refinance into a 24-year term saves $143.73 a month instead, breaks even in 38 months, and saves $35,993 over the life of the loan. Longer break-even, better loan.
Are discount points worth buying?
It is a break-even question and it is knife-edged. On a $300,000 30-year loan, one point costs $3,000 and — at a quarter-point of rate reduction — saves $49.05 a month, breaking even at month 62. Hold the loan seven years and you are $1,120 ahead; hold it five and you are $57 behind. Since the break-even lands close to the median holding period, the honest answer is that it depends almost entirely on how long you stay.
Does paying extra each month actually help?
Substantially, and the timing matters more than the amount. On a $300,000 loan at a placeholder 6.5%, an extra $200 a month removes 83 months and $103,449 of interest. A single $20,000 payment in year one removes 58 months and $91,623 of interest; the same $20,000 in year seventeen removes 23 months and $23,737. Early principal is worth several times what late principal is worth, because it cancels every subsequent interest charge on that amount.
Is a 15-year loan better than a 30-year one?
On a $300,000 loan at the same rate, 15 years costs $2,613.32 a month against $1,896.20 and saves $212,235 in interest. That is a 37.8% higher payment for less than half the interest. The neat part: take the 30-year loan and pay the $717.12 difference as extra principal every month and it retires in exactly 180 months having paid exactly the same interest — with the option of dropping back to the lower payment in a bad month, which the 15-year loan does not give you.
Floor two
The process
Appraisals, escrow, documents, and the parts nobody controls.
What happens if the appraisal comes in low?
The lender lends against the lower of the appraised value and the contract price, so the gap becomes your problem: pay the difference in cash, renegotiate the price, challenge the appraisal with better comparable sales, or walk away if your contract has an appraisal contingency. It is the most common way a purchase falls apart after an accepted offer, which is why the contingency is worth keeping.
What is escrow, and why did my payment change?
An escrow account collects one-twelfth of your annual property tax and insurance with each payment and pays those bills when they fall due. Both amounts change — assessments are often re-struck after a sale, and insurance premiums move — so the servicer performs an annual analysis and adjusts the payment. A payment rising with no change to your loan is almost always this.
Will applying with several lenders hurt my credit?
Not meaningfully. The scoring models used in mortgage lending treat multiple mortgage enquiries within a short shopping window as a single enquiry, precisely so that comparing lenders is not penalised. Comparing Loan Estimates from more than one lender is the single highest-value hour in the process.
What is the Closing Disclosure and what should I do with it?
It is the final itemisation of your loan and it must reach you at least three business days before closing. Put it beside the Loan Estimate you were given and compare line by line. Some figures are permitted to move and some are not, and asking about every one that changed is free before you sign and expensive afterwards.
Why will nobody tell me a closing date?
Because the two slowest steps belong to third parties — the appraiser and the title company — and neither works to a lender’s schedule. Any site advertising a guaranteed closing time is advertising something outside its control. This one does not, on purpose.
Ground floor
About this site
What Storey Home Lending is, and the things this demonstration deliberately refuses to claim.
Is Storey Home Lending a real lender?
Storey Home Lending is a fictional company built to demonstrate a website. It does not lend money, take applications, or hold any licence. Every figure, person and scenario on this site is illustrative.
Why are there no rates anywhere on this site?
No live rates are published on this site. The interest rates used in the calculators are starting values you can change — placeholders chosen to make the arithmetic legible, not quotes, not an average, and not tied to any date.
Why is there no NMLS number?
This is a demonstration website. It carries no NMLS ID and no state licence numbers, because publishing an invented ID in the format regulators actually issue could collide with a real originator’s. A live site would show its company NMLS ID here, alongside each loan officer’s, and link to NMLS Consumer Access.
Why are there no customer reviews or star ratings?
Because a demonstration lender has no customers, so it has nothing to average. There are no stars, no review counts and no AggregateRating in the structured data anywhere on this site. What replaces them is a set of worked scenarios, written and labelled as illustrations, in which the arithmetic is the point rather than the praise.
How accurate are the calculators?
Every figure this calculator produces is an illustration. It uses the published rules for amortisation and mortgage insurance, and states its assumptions on the page, but it cannot know your credit profile, your county’s tax assessment or an insurer’s pricing. Treat the shape of the answer as useful and the exact dollar as a placeholder.
Floor one
Not answered here?
The three pages below answer more of this in longer form. If you would rather ask a person,Storey Home Lending would be reached on (414) 555-0137or at [email protected] — though in this demonstration nobody picks up, because nobody is there.